Nanaimo was exactly what I wanted for my vacation: a place where I could be near the water and enjoy comfortable temperatures as a break from my daily life in the desert southwest of the United States; a place that had a variety of things I could do yet where I would also feel comfortable simply relaxing and soaking in the environment; a place where I would feel safe and welcome as a transgender woman. Nanaimo exceeded all that I hoped for.

Nanaimo skyline.
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A rocky beach at low tide with people walking along the shoreline and a forested island across the water.
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Getting There

The Hullo passenger ferry was the perfect way to get to Nanaimo. I didn’t need a car, so was able to avoid the need to take the BC Ferry from Horseshoe Bay or Tsawassen. The Hullo ferry departs from the downtown waterfront in Vancouver, a close walk from the Waterfront SkyTrain station. In Nanaimo, the ferry docks just south of downtown and provides a convenient free shuttle into the downtown core. The trip is fast and comfortable, taking between 60 and 90 minutes depending on conditions.

 

Where to Stay

I wanted to stay in the heart of the downtown, near the harbor, so that I could easily access the things I was interested in by foot. The Coast Bastion Inn proved to be ideal. I reserved a room with a full view of the waterfront from its large window, along with a Juliette balcony whose sliding door I left partially open almost all the time so I could enjoy the cool air and the smells and sounds of the water. At times I sat at the desk or rested on the couch looking out at the boats in the harbor. The room was comfortable, clean, and simply but tastefully decorated. The staff were friendly and helpful. And the waterfront walkway was mere steps from the front door. I would definitely stay there again.

Hull ferry at dock.
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A person walks past The Coast Bastion Inn on a rainy day, with wet pavement and trees lining the street.
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A person stands on a balcony overlooking a harbour with boats and distant islands at sunset.
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What Did I Do

Although I had 3 full days along with my arrival and departure days, Nanaimo offered more than I could see and do in that time. In keeping with my goal of balancing relaxation and rest with exploring the local sights, I filled my days with a mixture of adventure and quietly drinking in the energy around me.

 

My favorite activity was spending a day exploring Saysutshun Island. I took the convenient harbor ferry from Maffeo-Sutton Park, then walked up the trail on the east side of the island until I reached Kanaka Bay. The tide was out so I wandered across the tidal flats until I reached the water line. I definitely recommend beach shoes or sandals if you plan to do any wading around the island, as the shoreline is rough and rocky in most places. Walking through the forest to and from the beach was soothing and peaceful. The island offers more trails than I had time or energy to explore, so one could easily explore for a full day or more just on Saysutshun.

 

If you get hungry while on the island and didn’t bring your own food, there is a concession stand by the campground that offers some tasty meal options. I had the fish and chips, of course.

 

One can also rent bicycles, kayaks, and paddleboards on the island. While part of me really wanted to try kayaking or paddle boarding, I am not experienced with water activities (coming from the desert) and didn’t feel that going out on the bay alone was a wise idea. So I left that for a future visit, hopefully with a friend.

 

Throughout my stay I explored the shops downtown along Commercial Street and could easily have spent more than I did because there were so many interesting, unique, and local items for sale. I treated myself to a massage at PureSpa. I highly recommend them for a nice, refreshing break. Booking in advance is best to make sure they can get you in.

 

If you are visiting on a Thursday night in the summer as I was, be sure to check out the Night Market along Commercial Street. The entire street and some side plazas fill with local vendors and food trucks that draw both tourists and locals.

 

Thanks to a new local friend, I also had the opportunity to do some bouldering at a local climbing gym, and to check out the old-growth forest in Cathedral Grove, farther up the island near Coombs. A stop at Goats on the Roof in Coombs added another unique experience to my trip.

 

I spent a fair amount of time simply walking along the waterfront or sitting alongside the harbor soaking in the lovely breeze. Sometimes rejuvenation can be found in the simplest of things.

A person walking away from a tree.
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A view of an old city street.
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A sunny view of Nanaimo Harbour with boats in the marina, waterfront buildings in the distance, and a tree-lined walkway overlooking the water.
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What I Ate

I must confess that I am not a foodie, so while Nanaimo has a number of amazing local restaurants that were highly recommended to me, I didn’t make it to most of them because that wasn’t a priority for me. But if you are a foodie, you will have great options to choose from.

 

I wanted seafood above all (once again, I live in the desert,) I quite enjoyed the Lighthouse Bistro and Pub. Located on the waterfront next to the seaplane dock, the Lighthouse offers outside dining on a sheltered patio or inside dining. I chose outside to enjoy the full waterfront experience and the weather was terrific. The food was tasty and reasonably priced, and the service was excellent – so much so that I went back a second time to enjoy one of their dinner entrees. The creme brulee is made in house and provided a very tasty dessert to my dinner.

 

I had to visit the famous Dinghy Dock Pub. This unique floating pub is located across the harbor on Protection Island. A small passenger ferry takes you from the waterfront directly to the pub for a small fee, or you can paddle your kayak over and tie up by the pub. The pub offers several seafood dishes along with other traditional pub fare and is definitely worth the trip. You can also walk around the island. It is much smaller than Saysutshun and is mostly occupied by private homes, though there are some parks and beach access points.

 

I enjoyed breakfast a couple of times at the Ironworks Cafe & Creperie. Located only a few short steps from my hotel, this was a perfect place to enjoy breakfast and a morning cup of tea to start off my day. They offer a variety of savory or sweet crepes to suit any taste. The food was good and the service was always warm and friendly. Red’s Bakery, also on Commercial Street, offers tasty pastries that I had to try, and Cold Front Gelato was a perfect place to stop in for some afternoon refreshment.

Outside of the Lighthouse Bistro
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A crepe being cut into.
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The front of Red's Bakery.
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A Safe, Welcoming Community

As a trans woman, I often have significant anxiety about going places I am not familiar with. In my pre-trip interactions with the fantastic team at Tourism Nanaimo, I got the clear feeling that Nanaimo would be a community where I would feel safe and welcome. I was not disappointed in this. The sense of welcome I experienced went far beyond the rainbow-flag-painted intersection in the heart of downtown.I don’t know that I can adequately communicate to those who don’t live with such anxiety what it means to come to a place and never feel any sense that I was unwelcome or unsafe because of who I am. During my visit I felt a sense of peace that I don’t often feel. 

 

A Vacation to Remember

In my short visit I was only able to scratch the surface of what Nanaimo offers. I loved everything about it: the environment, the pace of life, and above all – the people. Nanaimo is truly a special place and I am certainly planning on coming again.